An A to Zed of the USA by a European Nomad – V, W, X, Y & Z

Vashon Island

In my teens, I read constantly and broadly. When I ran short of library books, I would raid my parents’ bookshelves where I read all the naughty parts in James Bond, AND stumbled upon some terrific texts that continue to inspire my travels. One of these was a WWII memoir set on Vashon Island. I was already a sucker for islands and island stories, and fell in love with the descriptions of this verdant if rainy paradise in Puget Sound. Just as I could never imagine living in New York City as a thirteen-year-old, I also never imagined one day I would visit the most north westerly part of the US.

Imagine the thrill when visiting a new friend in Seattle for the first time when she suggested we take a trip to Vashon island to visit a friend of hers who lived there. Vashon is a sweet gem, a short ferry ride from Seattle. A community with an eclectic mix of people and a laid back bohemian vibe — lots of artists, and a fab bookstore. It even has its own radio station and a thriving music scene.  It’s a very quiet little place with a creative vibe. And as we visited the new parcel of land S’s friend had recently bought, I understood how Betty MacDonald, the author of the memoir Onions in the Stew, had in no way exaggerated about the humidity and consequent verdant prolific vegetation. It was from this book I learnt how to “hunt” the geoduck! And if I wasn’t geeking out enough on getting to visit this literary location, the dude we were visiting suggested a jaunt around the bay in his boat. I have visited three islands so far on my Seattle trips, and highly recommend hopping on a ferry if you get the chance.

Wine

I confess that having lived 13 years in southern France, I had become a bit of an old world wine snob! Since living in the US, you will be glad to know I have seen the error of my ways. American wine has been produced for over 300 years, and the US is the 4th largest wine producing country in the world (after France, Spain and Italy.) And, I discovered that wine is produced in all fifty states. Yup! 

Did you know that the first Europeans we know of to explore North America, a Viking expedition from Greenland, called it Vinland because of the profusion of grape vines they found? The earliest wine made in what is now the United States was produced between 1562 and 1564 by French Huguenot Settlers from Scuppernong grapes at a settlement near Jackson, Florida.  In the early colonies of Virginia and the Carolinas, wine-making was an official goal laid out in the founding charters. 

While I have tried wines from the Finger Lakes, Long Island, Cape May, Portland OR, etc, the main vineyards I have visited and the American wines I tend to buy are not surprisingly, Californian. I have been fortunate to have spent several weeks in the Napa and Sonoma wine regions, just north of San Francisco, and have enjoyed some wine-tasting at several stunning locations here. I have drunk at European-style châteaux surrounded by immaculately groomed shrubbery, rose bushes and culinary gardens with Italian, French and American herbs and olive trees. And I have also tasted at tiny artisanal family-run wineries that may not bottle a lot of wine, but boy the quality is outstanding. The dry hillsides and dusky scents often remind me of France, which could be why this is where I would consider retiring. My favorite wine of the last 12 months is a bold Cabernet called Sophia’s Cuvée (named after the vintner’s daughter) that I drank in two restaurants in Baltimore but actually hails from a small Napa vineyard owned by the Kalaris family. 

Xmas Tree

Well before the annual Rockefeller Center Xmas Tree Lighting, in-the-know New Yorkers gather on the plaza each year for the tree-raising. Taking place on an early Saturday morning in mid November. This little known event is truly a sight to behold and in my humble opinion more spectacular than the well-attended lighting in December. During my first Christmas in the city, my then girlfriend (a born and bred Brooklynite) took me to see both the tree-raising and a performance of the Rockettes at radio City Music Hall, for the genuine New York Christmas experience! Wrapped up in mittens and beanies we watched as the mammoth Norway Spruce was driven onto the square, carefully untied and craned into its new home on the Center Plaza. Of course, you should come see it lit up too!

This year’s 72-foot and 75-year-old Norway spruce, known affectionately as Shelby, is the first to be donated by a same-sex or Latina couple from their property in Wallkill, New York.

 Yiddish

My first American girlfriend (see above) was Jewish and I received a wonderful crash course in both New York and New York Jews during the six months we dated. I flew in from London on a Saturday, and for breakfast the next morning she made me a bagel which had a shiny crust with a little bit of hardness to it and a nice glaze. The inside was very chewy, but not overly doughy. And the cream cheese, lox and capers filling was orgasmic! But I digress, good food will do that to me. From J, I not only learned about culture and cuisine, but my vocabulary expanded with many new words and expressions in Yiddish. Already speaking German and Dutch, I dove into this new language with glee. 

Some of these words are so delightful to say and packed with meaning (and many you will recognize) that I have incorporated them into my daily usage: klutz, mensch, schmooze, schlep, chutzpah, shtick, spiel. But one of my favorites remains Bashert (or Beshert). It has many intricate layers of meanings. In it’s basic form it means “meant to be” but that alone doesn’t really give you the full character of the word. Meeting a soulmate, running into an old friend at the grocery store, rescuing an animal or not getting a certain job can be “bashert moments”. But most commonly it is about finding that person with whom one has that “oneness”, with whom you share a common soul-root, common goals and compliment each other perfectly.

Zabar’s

In my last post I promised I would return to my Upper West Side ‘Z’, Zabar’s.  It is a New York institution and has been around since 1934.  The building itself has had the exact same facade since 1928. It’s Jewish food heaven, and my UWS Jewish landlady would have wasted away if it weren’t for her bi-weekly shopping here. The aisles are narrow; it’s pushy and loud and overwhelming, and everything is beautiful. And it’s like you’ve died and gone to Jewish food heaven, and I lived just a few blocks away. But it is so much more than just knish and babka. It takes up almost an entire block and it’s filled with favorites like bagels, caviar, cheese, chocolates, coffee, deli meats, pastries, smoked fish and so much more. Yes, prices are high on some items but others are quite reasonable. I usually first go straight to their fish counter. You grab a ticket with a number at the side of the counter and wait until your number is called to place your orders. I like the double smoked salmon, pepper salmon, and the baked salmon. The foreign cheese selection is also unparalleled, and on my student budget I went in regularly to do some olive tasting.

On my last visit here a month ago, I had some awesome tasting dill salmon, and cinnamon halvah. I have even bought Christmas presents from their house-ware selection on the second floor.  If you visit New York, it is so worth a trip up on the subway red lines to W 79th to visit Zabar’s.

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Love, Santa – Perfect Picture Book Friday

Title: Love, Santa

Written by: Martha Brockenbrough

Illustrated by: Lee White

Publisher: Arthur A. Levine Books, 2018

Ages: 8-11 (those starting to doubt Santa :))

Themes: truth, Christmas spirit, empathy, universal love, letters, holiday books Continue reading

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An A to Zed of the USA by a European Nomad – S, T & U

Statue of Liberty

This is my only overlap post with my A to Z of France, which I wrote in 2011 before I left Nice. 

She stands at the entrance to New York harbor . . . a 46m high statue of a woman holding up a book and a torch. ”La Liberté Éclairant le Monde” (Liberty Enlightening the World). Her American name is the ‘Statue of Liberty’ and she not only presides over New York’s harbor, but also Swan Ally Island (l’Allée des Cygnes) in the River Seine in Paris, and also Paris’ Luxembourg Gardens.  There are indeed three Lady Liberties!

The replica on the island was offered to the French by the American residents of Paris as a remembrance to commemorate the Centennial of the French Revolution.  It was inaugurated on November 15, 1889 and was placed so that it faced the Eiffel Tower. However, it’s creator Bartholdi insisted that it be turned to face the New York location of the Statue of Liberty.  The tablet on the Swan Alley Statue of Liberty has the dates IV Juillet 1776 et XIV Julliet 1789 (the dates of the US and French revolutions and our national days to this day).

America’s Statue of Liberty, on Liberty Island in New York Harbor, is known affectionately as Lady Liberty. The statue was a gift to America from the French in honor of the Centennial of American independence.  It is known worldwide  as a symbol of political freedom and democracy.  On Lady Liberty’s tablet is inscribed “July 4, 1776 in Roman numerals, Day of America’s Independence from Britain: July 4, 1776”, and inscribed upon the base for the statue is an excerpt from Emma Lazarus’ poem “The New Colossus” – 1883. An excerpt reads :

Give me your tired, your poor,
Your huddled masses yearning to breathe free,
The wretched refuse of your teeming shore.
Send these, the homeless, tempest-lost to me.

While I have seen Lady Liberty from various view points, my favorite remains from a sailboat on the Hudson with my sailing buddy, Anne.

 

Times Square

My first experience of Times Square (and New York City) was in the summer of 2011. I was here visiting colleges on the east coast as part of my work as a college counselor in an international school. Sadly, on my first day of the tour I had had my bag and passport stolen at Boston University and all I remember was a complete sensory overload in TS, and wondering if I would get lost in the crowds and never make it back to my hotel in the dark or out again at some unearthly hour to catch a train to DC and the British Embassy! First impression = overwhelmed.

Take Two. 2011 was the year I began to write and also the year when I started to consider moving to the US, so I was doing some exploratory visits to see if I really wanted to move here. So, on my way back from my annual Christmas visit to friends in Canada as I had to do a La Guardia airport stop-over anyway, I decided to spend New Year in New York. Times Square is the most visited place on the globe, with 360,000 pedestrian visitors a day. Despite the sub-zero temperatures, the cacophony and crush, I couldn’t help but feel the rush. A million people stood on just a couple of blocks. A million people—and a billion more watching at home watching the Waterford Crystal ball being lowered on a pole atop the building, marking the start of the new year—everyone believing in this moment. They were throwing beads and holding hands and screaming and dancing and singing a thousand different songs. There were people of all ages and races who had come from all over, and they were together. In that moment, Times Square was the center of the universe. It is certainly  something to do just once in a lifetime, having emptied your bladder and not drunk for the previous 6 hours! 

Since then I have crossed Times Square on countless occasions to go to the theater, meet a friend, head to a subway station. I walk with the snappy determined stride of any good New Yorker, dodging: tourists stopping abruptly for selfies, The Naked Cowboy, Elmo, cops or just some of the thousands who pass through daily.

Upper West Side

Well, as I seem to be on a New York City binge here, let me tell you about the 18 months I lived on the Upper West Side (UWS). I lodged in the apartment of a most wonderful retired Jewish widow, who was the perfect guide to life in the neighborhood, especially to Zabar’s, but I will save that for another post. It is wonderfully far from the tourist holes of  Hell’s Kitchen and Midtown, yet a totally rapid subway commute midtown when you want. And it is one of the few neighborhoods left in Manhattan that possesses a strong sense of community. 

Firstly, you are straddled by two amazeballs parks, Central Park to the east and Riverside park to the west. The latter stretches for 86 blocks along the Hudson River. It features cafes, art installations, and a terrific bike path which I have used. It is without a doubt Manhattan’s most spectacular waterfront park. I can’t tell you the number of hot humid August afternoons I have strolled over to Riverside to catch a refreshing breeze off the Hudson, or the thrill of snowshoeing or cross country skiing around the reservoir in a blizzard. Not to mention the hours of tennis I played with retirees on the Central Park Courts. I often thought back on when I would watch a movie like “You’ve Got Mail” never dreaming I would one day live in this unbeatable metropolis.

I lived a block from the American Museum of Natural History. With iconic mainstays like massive dinosaur fossils and the blue whale, this museum  is the perfect winter destination to expand your wonder and awe even further. It also has an amazing insect department whose head entomologist gave me a special tour and a specimen of  a juvenile bed bug, which I needed to prove to myself that I was now bed bug free. OMG, and that is another story I need to tell y’all about!

At the southern end of the Upper West Side we are also so lucky to have the Lincoln Center providing the neighborhood with a high-culture appeal by hosting performing arts institutions like the Metropolitan Opera and the New York City ballet. I was fortunate to be introduced to the Met shortly after arriving in NYC in 2013 when a friend who was a stage manager on Broadway had a spare ticket to see Placido Domingo in La Traviata. 

I could regale you about many more attributes of the UWS, but I suggest you go for a wander up there yourself. 

 

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